It is well-known that every detailed-balance Markov chain has a diagonalizable transition matrix. I am looking for an example of a Markov chain whose transition matrix is not diagonalizable. That is:
Give a transition matrix $M$ such that there exists no invertible matrix $U$ with $U^{-1} M U$ a diagonal matrix.
Is there a combinatorial interpretation for the Jordan blocks that I can see directly from the graph?
Edit: I found this example here: http://ocw.mit.edu/courses/electrical-engineering-and-computer-science/6-262-discrete-stochastic-processes-spring-2011/video-lectures/lecture-8-markov-eigenvalues-and-eigenvectors/MIT6_262S11_lec08.pdf on page 21.
\begin{array}{ccc} 1/2 & 1/2 & 0\\ 0 & 1/2 & 1/2\\ 0 & 0 & 1 \end{array}
This particular example has two non-recurrent states, which is not really what I want. So I am modifying my question to ask for an example of a Markov chain for which every state is recurrent.