I need to replace the lid of my water kettle and am searching for a filament, that is suitable for this purpose. The requirements are:
Has anyone experimented with this or similar purposes?
Referring to the table provided in 0scar's answer, the key challenge with high temperature materials is the gap between the glass transition temperature (bed temperature) and the extruder temperature.
Polycarbonate for example is listed as usable up to 121°C, printing on a bed at 80-120°C, but requiring an extruder temperature of 260-310°C. This extruder temperature is potentially going to challenge the mechanical, thermal and measurement properties of a printer.
In this application, you don't strictly require 100°C operation, so Nylon (80-95°C) and ABS (98°C) might be worth trying. Even if one side of the part is at this temperature, immersed in steam, the opposite side is exposed to air and convection cooling. Providing there is sufficient thermal insulation and internal rigidity, the upper shell of the part is likely to support it. However, if the inner face does start to flow it may take some time before a problem is apparent.
So long as the material is not soluble, absorbing moisture may not be a major issue.
When it comes to being food-safe, this is a huge can of worms, and you're really looking to investigate 'how much of a risk' rather than get a go/no-go answer.
There are few materials that go up to that temperature and beyond.
A very nice generic overview is given by Simplify3d:
This figure shows an overview of many of the used materials in 3D printing
When looking closely, and without pointing to specific brands (to avoid a commercial posting), your best chances for appropriate filaments for your application is to look at Nylon, Polycarbonate (do not consider Polypropylene; that is very difficult to print) or (not mentioned in the overview as they are more recent filaments) Co-Polyester polymers.
I recommend PEEK if you are able to print around 400 °C.
From Wikipedia - Polyether ether ketone
As requested in comments, here is the setup I use to print small PEEK parts:
Please note that larger parts will require (and all parts will benefit from) a heated build chamber.
Also note that annealing PEEK parts after printing (we use a circuit board reflow oven) recrystallizes (strengthens) the PEEK (and is recommended, but not required).
Here is one of our videos from 2015 showing the 410 °C prototype for this head printing PEEK: YouTube - Introducing Hyrel's MK1-450 Printing PEEK and PC
I work for Hyrel 3D. The company page is linked in my profile.
